Argentina Meets California at The Farm Winery in Paso Robles
Santiago Achával Becú is renown for the world class wines he made with Italian winemaker Roberto Cipresso at Achával-Ferrer in Mendoza beginning in 1994; we met him a few years later at the winery in Luján de Cuyo. However, Santiago was first inspired by the wines of Napa Valley while he was attending the Stanford Business School. While there, he became friends with classmate Jim Madsen, and the two of them launched The Farm Winery in Paso Robles in 2009. [See photo of Santiago and Mercédes Achával and Azmina and Jim Madsen.] Jim and Santiago negotiated long term-leases of several vineyards located in the westside hills of Paso Robles. These vineyards have mainly calcareous soils at an average altitude of between 1700 and 1900 feet and are exposed to cool ocean winds, resulting in wide diurnal temperature variations that contribute to high quality fruit. The vines are severely thinned, and the use of green harvesting has kept yields very low, at around 1.5-2.0 tons per acre. These yields are among the lowest in Paso Robles and are reflected in the wines’ concentration of flavors. The winery crafts wines from Rhone and Bordeaux varieties. Santiago has managed to give all these wines a silky, sensuous mouthfeel and concentrated, fruit-driven flavors. We’ve reviewed the The Farms portfolio several times over the years, both in Paso Robles and our offices in Washington DC. In this article, we look at the 2019 vintage.
Bordeaux Blends
The Farms’ Bordeaux blends begin with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and then add other Bordeaux and Rhone varieties to the mix.
The Farm Winery 2019 Old Union Paso Robles Adelaida District 92 The Old Union opens with deep aromas of lush, dark red fruit. It’s soft on entry and opulent on a broad, softly textured palate of black fruit and minerals. Good balancing acidity and loads of flavor but lacks the structure of the 2018 vintage. The only Farm Winery Cabernet sourced outside the Adelaida district, Old Union is sourced from the Willow District just to the south with a strong marine influence from the Templeton Gap. All Cabernet Sauvignon; 13.5% alc.
The Farm Winery 2019 Cardinal Paso Robles Adelaida District 93 The Cardinal Cabernet Sauvignon is rich and delicious. It opens with fragrant scents of cassis, loamy earth and charred barrel. On the palate, this firmly structured wine shows good freshness, rich flavors and dry tannins; long finish. 93% Cabernet Sauvignon matured in 100% new French oak; 13.7% alc.
The Farm Winery 2019 Cardinal Reserve Paso Robles Adelaida District ($135) 94 The Farm’s flagship Cabernet Sauvignon and has been consistently impressive in our tastings over time. It’s richly perfumed of black currants, black raspberries, and spice. The mouth feel is silky and seductive, and the dark fruited flavors complex and Bordeaux-like, finishing with firm tannins. Superb! Sourced from Paso Robles’ oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard (Old Bailey, planted in 1964) with excruciatingly tiny yields (1/2 ton/acre), this is The Farm’s flagship Cabernet Sauvignon. 14% alc.
The Farm Winery 2019 lpf Paso Robles Adelaida District ($75) 93 Opens with scents of black currant, earth, and toast that are picked up and complemented by dark cherry and huckleberry on a firmly structured palate. Finishes long with firm tannins and excellent persistence of dark red fruit. This wine, LPF, is named after Keynes’ Liquidity Preference Theory, revealing the business school training of Jim and Santiago. 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot; 13.5% alc.
The Farm Winery 2019 The Big Game Paso Robles Adelaida District ($75) 94 The Big Game, sourced from the limestone soils of the Adelaida District, offers a black fruited nose with charred underbrush and loam notes. It’s silky in texture and layered on the palate with dark fruit and savory notes complemented by lively acidity. Finishes with firm dry tannins. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Syrah, 5% Malbec, and 5% Petit Verdot; 13.8% alc.
The Farm Winery 2019 Pura Vida Paso Robles Adelaida District ($80) 93 Opaque color with a vivid perfume of violets and black fruit. Vibrant and well balanced with tangy acidity and firm dry tannins. Excellent depth and a persistent finish. 80% Petit Verdot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon; 14.2% alc.
Rhone Blends
The Rhone blends are all a blend of Grenache and Syrah, beginning with predominantly Grenache [the 100% Grenache is not made every year] and ending with a 100% Syrah.
The Farm Winery 2019 Touchy-Feely Paso Robles Adelaida District ($65) 93 Medium dark red. Aromas recall freshly picked ripe red strawberries with notes of darker berries and plum. Layers of generous flavors and a hedonistic mouth feel, suave and lush, on a medium weight palate. Beautiful, easy drinking–soft, lush, ripe and fruit rich. A blend of 69% Grenache and 31% Syrah sourced from the 1800? high Terra Bella Vineyard in the Adelaida District; 14.7% alc.
The Farm Winery 2019 Primal Scream Paso Robles Adelaida District ($65) 94 Pure, rich dark cherry and plum are revealed on the nose of this outstanding Syrah-Grenache blend followed by an opulent, dark red fruited palate. It’s a flashy, admirably concentrated and silky wine with excellent acidic cut and fine grained tannins that lend just enough spine. A blend of 67% Syrah and 33% Grenache sourced from the 1800? high Terra Bella Vineyard in the Adelaida District; 14.5% alc.
The Farm Winery 2019 The Red Zone Paso Robles Adelaida District ($65) 95 Dark red. The Farm’s 100% Syrah has always been one of our favorites, but this year it truly excels in all respects. The bouquet is intricate with interwoven scents of violets, roses, and dark berries. The attack is silky and the velvet-textured palate reveals layers of dark red fruit with savory and cracked pepper notes. Gorgeous! 100% Syrah; 14.3% alc.
