Prosecco, Large and Small (Postcard from Asolo Prosecco, Part 3)
[ This is Part 3 of a series detailing my media jaunt to Italy’s Asolo Prosecco Superiore. Check out Part 1 and Part 2). ]
The Asolo Prosecco Superiore region offers some interesting contrasts, perhaps none so obvious as that between the two producers featured here today: Villa Sandi, and Bele Casel. One, of course, is practically a household name worldwide, in that it’s one of a handful of producers that consumers can readily identify with Prosecco production. The other? Largely a brother-and-sister team hand-producing only about 125,000 bottles per year.
Both kind of exemplify the Asolo experience, in their own ways. And god knows I love these sort of ironic contrasts! So, here goes…
Villa Sandi
Located in the Crocetta del Montello commune, Villa Sandi is a giant among Prosecco producers: number one in exports form Treviso; owner of vineyard plots all over the production region; producing 5.5 million bottles per year, plus another 20+ million via sister brands. Their estate villa and underground tunnels (utilized during the war, when the front line was nearby along the Piave river, now used to store their classical method sparklers), along with their lovely Locanda Sandi restaurant in nearby Valdobbiadene— are all as intriguing—and as gorgeous—as they sound.
Their wines? A mixed bag of the simply quaffable to the complexly intriguing.
NV Villa Sandi Brut ‘Biodiversity Friend’ Asolo Prosecco Superiore, $20
Evoking ripe golden apples, white flowers, wild herbs, honey, and pears, this Brut offers compelling freshness and a seductive mouthfeel. The palate focuses straight in on showing off its intense fruitiness, and it’s tastiness makes it hard to put down.
2023 La Gioiosa et Amorosa Extra Dry Asolo Prosecco Superiore, $25
Pungent florals, yellow apples, and candied pear kick this Extra Dry off, followed by white peaches, honey, and acacia flower notes. Fruity and refreshing, there are sweet tinges to the edges of the palate that make this one a clear crowd-pleaser.
NV Villa Sandi ‘Snow Polo’ Extra Brut Asolo Prosecco Superiore, $NA
Crafted for the World Cup of Snow Polo (yes, there is such a thing!) in St. Moritz, this is essentially the same as their popular ‘Nero’ bottling. Honey, pears, perfume, and flower petals mark the nose; good acidity and lovely apple fruit lead the charge on the palate.
Bele Casel
Bele Casel is perched in (what I can personally attest to are ) the steep hills of Vigna Longon. Siblings Paola and Luca Ferraro now run this tiny outfit, started about four decades ago by their father, Danilo. Their vine plantings are steep even by Asolo standards, requiring some terracing among what the local s call “the silent hills” where the noises consist mostly of birds and mowers. Their tasting room, in contrast to the stately confines of Villa Sandi, is an old hilltop hay barn.
The hard clay soils (mixed with with calcareous concretions and called “caranto” or “stone,” presumably because of its density) combine with the aspect to make their farming difficult (again, even by Asolo standards), requiring constant effort to fight against erosion. “It’s the good and the bad,” noted Paula; “you can’t just say ‘I’m going on holiday! Bye-bye!’ We do the same things over and over again, but every year, it’s different.”
2021 Bele Casel Col Fondo Colli Trevigiani Vino Frizzante, $NA
This cloudy, unfiltered bubbly cannot utilize the DOCG label due t o its use of crown caps rather than cork-and-cage closure. Saline, biscuits, lemons, acacia flower, pears, Granny Smith apples, and some funk kick it off. The palate is fine, fresh, and creamy, evoking a rustic authenticity and quality level that’s rare in the Natural Wine context. The acidity is almost crunchy, and it combines funkiness and elegance in a unique package. Incidentally, we tasted back to their `09 release of this label, and it was still in superb shape!
2019 Bele Casel ‘Dosage Zero Vecchie Uve’ Asolo Prosecco Superiore, $29
This “old grapes” zero dosage sparkler is a blend of local varieties, including Rabbiosa (unique to the region), which develops raging acidity levels. Clean, pure, and floral, there are notes of fresh pears, apples, herbs, and saltiness here, along with stone and tropical fruit action. A long, lemony, savory finish closes this excellent bubbly out in a fantastic manner.
2020 Bele Casel ‘Caranto’ Vino Bianco (Colli Trevigiani), $NA
A 100% single vineyard Bianchetta that sees a bit of skin contact, again grown on their caranto soils. Clay, sea salt, and bay leaf herbs mingle with notes of citrus, yellow apple, and fresh veggies. This salty, citric, astringent white is unique, freaky, and long, all in good ways.
Cheers!
