Savour the diversity of Chinese wines
When Helan Qingxue’s 2009 Jia Bei Lan Cabernet Sauvignon from Ningxia won an International Trophy (equivalent to today’s Best in Show) at the 2011 Decanter World Wine Awards, the unprecedented achievement for a Chinese wine shook the grape world to its very tendril. Since then, millions of bottles of Chinese wine have been opened and savoured. No one is surprised anymore when a wine from China strikes gold. That really has been the best news for the country’s wine industry. Bordeaux blends still rule, but the diversity is increasing. Changyu’s Longyu Estate, for instance, pioneered a Blanc de Noir Cabernet Sauvignon. China is also trialling varietal Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc – Grace Vineyard’s Tasya’s Reserve Cabernet Franc is a worthy example. Chardonnays have become less oaked and more tensioned. Helan Qingxue’s Jia Bei Lan Chardonnay (not the Reserve) reminds of Chablis, while Silver Heights’ Reserve and Chateau Changyu Afip’s example reveal citrus fruit and vanilla wrapped in freshness.
After years of turning out oaky Marselan – trying to be more Cabernet than Cabernet – many of today’s Chinese Marselans exude violet notes, silky tannins and deep, dark berry fruit, now taking more after its Grenache parent (Marselan is a crossing of Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon). Helan Qingxue’s Jia Bei Lan Baby Feet Marselan (with no new oak) is a reference. So too is Tiansai’s Selection Marselan, particularly the 2017 vintage. Syrah is also enjoying a honeymoon period with some Chinese vignerons, beguiling wine lovers with succulent fruit and supple tannins. Copower Jade’s Fei Tswei Reserve Syrah ticks all those boxes.
Kuerdening vineyard in winter. Silk Road Vineyards, Yili, Xinjiang.
China also produces salivating, tingling Rieslings. The grape is a natural pairing for Chinese seafood dishes. Silkroad makes pristine, zesty thirst-quenchers. In Northeastern China (north of North Korea), bracing winters mean the province of Liaoning produces ice wine as effortlessly as in Ontario, Canada, 9,000km away. Sanhe’s Cailonglin Jinding Icewine is intense and beautifully persistent. In January 2023, at Château Beychevelle, a fourth-growth estate in Bordeaux’s St-Julien appellation, I invited nine Chinese wineries to show their wines to 30 of Bordeaux’s most important winemakers and wine owners. Then, in July 2024, I invited nine Chinese wineries to pour their wines in Tokyo to some of Japan’s top wine distributors, journalists, educators, influencers, restaurant owners, drinks executives and sommeliers. Domaine de Long Dai, Domaines Barons de Rothschild (DBR) Lafite’s property in Shandong’s Qiu Shan Valley, was present at both tastings.
Saskia de Rothschild, DBR’s executive chairwoman, and I will soon present its wines again, alongside Château Lafite, at the inaugural Decanter Fine Wine Encounter in Singapore on 26 October. It’s a vote of confidence for China’s terroir and what its wine producers can bring to the world. Read on for reviews of 14 Chinese wines that won Silver (90 points) and above at the Decanter World Wine Awards since 2019.
Chinese wines from six regions to try
Devo Winery, MV02 Brut, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia NV
2024 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) Silver – 91pts
DWWA notes: Traditional-method sparkling aged on lees for 36 months. Broad aromas of citrus peel, pineapple, yeast and fresh butter. Refreshing acidity, full-bodied. Grapes: Chardonnay 50%, Pinot Noir 50%. Alc: 12.5%
Discover more on: Instagram
Trade contact: maning@pinotine.cn; +86 15088602446 (Ning Ma)
Stockists: Chang Kuang Trading Co Ltd (Japan), BC Selections SA (Mexico). Seeking representation in UK
Chateau Changyu Afip, A8 Chardonnay, Miyun, Beijing 2019
The 2018 vintage won 2021 DWWA Platinum – 97pts
Tasted by CH’NG Poh Tiong (CPT), DWWA Regional Chair for Asia: Aromas of vanilla and toasty oak, reinforced by lemon-lime fruit on the medium-bodied palate; fresh and vibrant. Grape: Chardonnay 100%. Alc: 12.5%
Trade contact: +86 010 89089999
Chateau Changyu Longyu Estate, Barrel Aged Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc de Noir, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2022
The 2018 vintage (then called Chateau Changyu Moser XV, Moser Legend Blanc de Noir) won 2019 DWWA Gold – 95pts
CPT: Vanilla oak and peach nose.Textural, with a creamy, glycerol palate. Not unlike some top, modern, pale Provence rosés that resemble a rich white Burgundy. Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon 100%. Alc: 14.5%
Trade contact: u.macher@pr-international.com (UK)
Stockist: Bibendum (UK)
Silver Heights, Chardonnay Reserve, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2021
2024 DWWA Gold – 95pts
DWWA: Green apple, lime and pineapple melds with flinty minerals. Bright and glossy with a creamy texture and a seamless acid drive. Grape: Chardonnay 100%. Alc: 12.5%
Winery: Silver Heights Yinchuan (Helan), Ningxia
Discover more on: Instagram
Trade contact: export@silverheights.cn
Stockists: China Knot (UK); Crystal Wine (Singapore); Vino&Design (Italy); Iconic Terroirs SAC (Peru); Ishikawa Roumu Kanri Jimusyo (Japan); Watson’s Wine (Hong Kong); SC Bangkok Marketing (Thailand); Red Warehouse (Vietnam)
Xige Estate, Jade Dove Single Vineyard Cabernet Gernischt, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2019
2023 DWWA Silver – 92pts
DWWA: Intriguing nose with spice and black pepper allied to dark cherry and eucalyptus on the dry palate. Aged 12 months in barrel, 90% French and 10% American oak.
Grape: Cabernet Gernischt 100%. Alc: 13.8%
Trade contact: info@xige-estate.com
Chateau Changyu Tinlot, Yantai, Shandong 2016
2024 DWWA Gold – 96pts
DWWA: Florals and dark, peppery fruit over a well-built body awash with sweet, coconut oak tannins and mint acidity. Long finish with tobacco hints. Grapes: 60% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Marselan, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Alc: 15.5%
Trade contact: zhoupan8606941@163.com
Copower Jade, Fei Tswei Reserve Syrah, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2021
2024 DWWA – Silver – 92pts
DWWA: Lovely blueberry aromas with notes of mocha and blackberry fruit. Elegant and peppery on the palate; big yet stylish. 12 months of ageing in oak, 30% new. Grapes: Syrah 80%, Petit Verdot 13%, Cabernet Sauvignon 7%. Alc: 14.5%
Trade contact: +86 18095391654; fei.ding@copowergroup.com
Stockists: Wine Logistics (UK). Seeking representation in Singapore and Japan
Grace Vineyard, Tasya’s Reserve Cabernet Franc, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2018
The 2016 vintage won 2019 DWWA Gold – 96pts
CPT: Blackcurrant and blackberry fruit plus smoky, toasty oak vie for our attention in this lifted, fresh wine. Aged for 15 months in French oak barrels, 25% new. Grape: 100% Cabernet Franc. Alc: 15.5%
Trade contact: contact@grace-vineyard.com
Stockists: Seeking representation in UK
Helan Qingxue Vineyard, Jia Bei Lan Reserve, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2019
The 2015 vintage won 2019 DWWA Gold – 95pts
CPT: Ripe, intense blackcurrant, liquorice and star anise flavours cloaked in silky tannins. Layered and complex with abundant freshness from start to finish. Seamless and harmonious. Grape: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Alc: 14.5%
Trade contact: +86 13995116667; nxjiabeilan@sina.com
Stockists: Seeking representation in UK
Lansai Winery, Yu Moli Cabernet Sauvignon, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2020
2023 DWWA Gold – 96pts
DWWA: Classic nose of roasted coffee, forest floor, cedar, dried leaves, leather and generous red fruit. Long, with assertive, polished tannins. Aged 12 months in
40% new French oak. Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon 100%. Alc: 15.5%
Trade contact: +86 1389 5171988; 214444744@qq.com
Stockists: Seeking representation in UK
Silk Road Vineyards, Explore Red Blend, Yili, Xinjiang 2021
The 2020 vintage won 2023 DWWA Silver – 90pts
CPT: Full-frontal and full-bodied packed with fresh and dried blue and black berries and sweet vanilla oak. The richness calls for meat stews and casseroles. Grapes: Merlot 75%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20%, Petit Verdot 5%. Alc: 15%
Trade contact: +86 13909918271 (Yong Li); 1269690483@qq.com
Stockists: Seeking representation in UK
Tiansai Vineyards, Skyline of Gobi Grand Reserve Marselan, Yanqi, Xinjiang 2017
2023 DWWA Gold – 95pts
DWWA: Mature, pruney nose with complex aromas of creamy oak, dark chocolate, barley sugar and leather. Polished and elegant palate with refined tannins. Grape: Marselan 100%. Alc: 14.4%
Trade contact: +86 0996 6322222; sunqing@tsjz.com
Stockists: Seeking representation in UK
Chateau Changyu Golden Icewine Valley, Black Diamond Vidal, Huanren, Liaoning 2022
The 2017 vintage won 2020 DWWA Gold – 95pts
CPT: Liaoning effortlessly produces ice wine of mind- boggling quality. The apricot fruit here is so pure, long and intense. Rich and ripe with crazy persistence. Grape: Vidal 100%. Alc: 10.5%
Trade contact: taibeiwu@cht-bs.de; yu.song@lmm-projects.com
Stockist: WTG Working Together Gmbh; CHT Business Service Gmbh
Sanhe Wine Winery, Cailonglin Jinding Icewine, Huanren, Liaoning, China 2016
2022 Decanter World Wine Awards Gold – 95pts
DWWA: The nose displays lovely zesty citrus fruit with fresh, vivid touches of pineapple and raisins. Honeyed, almost lactic, on the palate. The 2013, 2017 and 2021 vintages are also Gold Medal winners in 2020, 2023 and 2024 DWWA respectively. Grape: Vidal 100%. Alc: 12%
Trade contact: +86 13922312117; cailonglin@163.com; brad@canawineco.com (USA)
Stockists: Cana Wine Company (USA). Seeking representation in UK.
