Fontodi: Chianti Classico from Panzano’s Conca d’Oro

Giovanni Manetti, President of the Chianti Classico Consorzio, is known internationally for his stellar wine and for guiding the Consorzio through a major change, the establishment of communal appellations, UGAs. However, the family is also known in Tuscany for manufacturing terra cotta tiles, which the Manettis have been doing since about 1650.  We’ve reviewed Fontodi’s wines in the past and visited Giovanni and the winery for our last report. In this article, we review Fontodi’s current releases and discuss the relationship between making clay tiles and making wine.

Giovanni’s father, Dino, was passionate about wines, so in 1968 he purchased the historic Fontodi estate in Panzano where wine has been made since Roman times.  The winery was run down but ideally located at high altitude (350-480m) in the Conca d’Oro with a southerly exposure. The soils are a mix of galestro at lower altitudes and albarese at higher altitudes. In 1979 the family, including 16-year-old Giovanni, moved to the estate from Florence. The famed enologist Franco Bernabei arrived at the same time and became Giovanni’s mentor.

The Fontodi Cellar [credit drw]

In 1981, Fontodi introduced the Super Tuscan Flaccianello della Pieve, a 100% Sangiovese wine, and followed that up in 1985 with the creation of the single vineyard Chianti Classico Riserva, Vigna del Sorbo, which was later designated as a Gran Selezione. In 1986 Giovanni became manager of the winery and vineyard, and his brother became manager of the terra cotta business.  With the introduction in the winery of clay amphora made at the Fontodi factory, the two businesses are in a sense merging. The Fontodi wines are modern in style.

The Wines

Fontodi 2021 Chianti Classico 94 Dark ruby red. Fragrant dark cherry and cassis with savory herbs on the nose. Silky on the attack and excellent depth on a richly flavored, loamy palate. Shows a firm backbone, bright acidity and superb length. Aged in used oak barrels and botti. Tasted twice, in Florence and New York.

Fontodi 2021 Chianti Classico Filetta di Lamole  93 This wine is a collaboration between Giovanni and his cousin who owns this high altitude (550-600m) vineyard in Lamole. The wines is vinified in concrete in Lamole and then aged at the winery in Panzano. The wine is as exotic as the place it comes from with fragrant dark berries and spice on the nose and savory notes of underbrush and smoked meat complementing the lush fruit on the palate. Fine firm tannins and a rich finish.

Fontodi 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Terrazze San Leolino Panzano ($119) 95 Opens with aromas redolent of red currant, black cherry, rose petals, and spice that are mirrored on a dense, weighty palate. There’s firm acidity and excellent balance. From a terraced vineyard of albarese and schist at 450-500m; fermented in stainless steel aged the first year in barrel and the second in casks of 20% new French oak. 15% alc.

Fontodi 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Terrazze San Leolino Panzano ($100) 96 This is the first vintage of the San Leolino Gran Selezione, a selection of grapes sourced from a 4.5 parcel at 450-500m elevation near the church of the same name. It reveals a fine, earthy perfume and an elegant palate of sweet dark red fruit that’s silky in texture with firm but not aggressive tannins.

Fontodi 2021 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo Panzano  98 Dark red. First made in 1985, this is a superb, elegant wine with an expressive nose of rich dark fruit with notes of underbrush, cedar, and garden herbs. Broad, full and rich on the palate but light on its feet with bright acidity framing the fruit. Extremely long and fine finish. Made from vines planted in 1963; aged one year in 25% new oak barrels followed by a year in botti.

Fontodi 2020 Flaccianello della Pieve Colli Toscana Centrale  96 This 100% Sangiovese was first introduced as a Super Tuscan in 1981 at a time when the rules still required that Chianti Classico include a percentage of white wine. It’s a selection of fruit from three different vineyards. The wine is refined and pure, firmly structured yet with round, accessible tannins. Matured in 35% new oak barrels for one year followed by a year in botti.