Johan Reyneke: A Biodynamic Producer in South Africa

Like many in South Africa’s wine industry, Johan Reyneke studied at Stellenbosch University where he specialized in environmental ethics. When he later (1998) started farming in the Polkadraai Hills he put his studies in practice.  He cultivated using organic and biodynamic practices, and he adopted socially progressive labor policies.  Johan soon began making wine, and in 2008 his Reyneke Winery was the first in South Africa to be certified biodynamic by Demeter International. I visited Johan in those early days and have followed him and his wines ever since. I recently had the opportunity to revisit Johan.

Much has changed at the Reyneke Winery. The original 40-hectare farm (called Uitzicht) has expanded to 120 hectares (80 ha of vines) with the purchase of a nearby farm, which he is replanting with wildlife corridors while preserving the unique flora of the region. Indigenous Nguni cattle contribute to the production of humus.

I met Reyneke’s new winemaker, Barbara Melck, who works with Rudiger Gretschel, the lead winemaker for the Vinimark group that partners with the Reyneke Winery. I also toured the winery and tasted some 2024 Chenin Blanc juice just beginning to ferment in foudre and clay amphora.  And, of course, I tasted several of the winery’s current releases (reviewed below).  About 80 percent of the production is exported; the US importer is Vineyard Brands.

The Wines

Johan Reyneke & Don Winkler

Reyneke 2023 Biodynamic Sauvignon Blanc Stellenbosch 92  Lively nose of quince, green citrus, and grapefruit peel. Firm, focused mouth feel; overall, bright, citrusy and mineral like with a light note of garden herbs. Matured on the lees in old barrels for about 8 months.

Reyneke 2021 Reserve White 94  This 100% Sauvignon Blanc Reserve sees some new oak, about 1/3, and longer time on the lees, about 11 months. The nose is reticent with touches of gooseberry, spice and flint. Beautifully textured palate, almost creamy, full and round with vivacious acidity. There’s just a hint of vanilla oak and a chalky mineral finish. A gorgeous wine.

Reyneke 2022 Organic Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch 91 A fruity bouquet leaps from the glass revealing yellow apple, cling peach, and a note of lemon cream. Soft on entry and perfumed and soft on the fruit rich palate. Sourced from both estate vineyards and purchased fruit, all farmed organically. pH 3.32, 13% alc.

Reyneke 2023 Biodynamic Chenin Blanc OVP Stellenbosch 94  Opens with scents of orchard and stone fruit. Focused and firm on the palate with a long, mineral like finish. Sourced from a ridge top estate parcel of bush vines overlooking the sea planted in 1974; whole bunch pressed, native ferment in used oak and matured in 20hl foudres. pH 3.40, 13.4% alc.

Reyneke 2020 Biodynamic Syrah Stellenbosch 94 Dark red. Dark red fruited aromas with floral and herbal accents that are mirrored on the fresh, vibrant palate. A firmly structured and focused wine. Handpicked estate fruit; whole bunch foot stomped and fermented in open-top concrete fermenters and matured 12 months in oak vessels of various sizes. pH 3.69, 13.9% alc.

Reyneke 2020 Organic Cornerstone Stellenbosch 95 Dark red. This Bordeaux blend of 85% Cabernet Franc and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon reveals an effusive, liqueur like, dark fruited nose. The palate is refined and focused with dark cassis and earthy leaf notes. Superb balance! Fermented in open top concrete tanks; the Cabernet Sauvignon is aged in new French barriques and the Cabernet Franc in used barriques for 18 months. pH 3.49, 14% alc.