Ken Forrester: Focus on Chenin Blanc
In 1993, Ken Forrester bought a rundown, Stellenbosch property that included 38 hectares of vines and a house dating back to 1694. In 1995 he produced his first Chenin Blanc, and in 1996 he made his first export sale (to Oddbins in London) and opened his 96 Winery Road Restaurant, where I recently met up with winemaker Shawn Mathyse to taste the winery’s current releases. [Ken was in Frankfurt, Germany, showing his wines at ProWein.] After the tasting with Shawn, the Chenin Blanc Association organized a major tasting of Chenin Blancs from the diverse terroirs of the Western Cape.[see photo below]
Chenin Blanc is South Africa’s most important grape, and Ken Forrester is arguably its most important producer. He was cofounder in 2000 of the Chenin Blanc Association and remains chief flag-bearer and promoter of the variety. Today, he produces several labels of Chenin both from his estate vineyard and 54 hectares of fruit contracted from other growers. All the vineyards are organically cultivated.
The Wines
Ken Forrester 2021 Sparklehorse Chenin Blanc Brut MCC Stellenbosch 91 Sourced from an old vine [1975 OVP] vineyard located just outside the tasting room, this Chenin Blanc MCC is fresh and bright with ripe fruit and yeasty aromas and flavors. Harvested twice, once for acidity and once for flavor, and the base wine is fermented in stainless steel with 9 months on the lees. Spends 24-28 months in bottle on the lees. 8 g/L RS, 12% alc.
Ken Forrester 2022 Stained Glass Chenin Blanc Methode Ancestrale Stellenbosch 91 This Chenin Blanc Pet-Nat (bottled while still fermenting) is zero dosage, so it’s crisp and dry. But it reveals lovely fresh yellow peach on the nose and bright, fresh palate with plenty of up-front fruit. 13.5% alc.
Ken Forrester 2023 Petit Chenin Blanc Western Cape 88 This is Ken Forrester’s largest production wine, almost 500 thousand bottles/year. Amazingly, it’s still hand harvested from contracted vineyards. The grapes are picked early for acidity, and the wine is easy drinking with light cling peach and pineapple flavors, and a fresh, fruit forward palate. 13.5% alc.
Ken Forrester 2023 Old Vine Chenin Blanc Reserve Stellenbosch 92 Clean and fresh on the nose, evocative of a cool mountain stream. Nicely balanced with bright acidity and pure stone and orchard fruit flavors. Made from 2 different pickings of estate parcels. The first picking is made in stainless steel with commercial yeast, while the second picking, about 2 weeks later, if fermented in 400L French oak (about 20% new) using native yeast. After 9 months the two are blended. We also tasted the 2013 to see how this blend changes with age. It was still fresh but more complex with tangy-raisiny aromas and a delightful, creamy-honeyed character. If the 2023 will evolve this way, please buy a case to cellar.
Ken Forrester 2021 Terre Noire Swartland 91 Terre Noire is sourced from two OVP dry farmed vineyards aged 35 and 37 years that yield small bunches of very small berries. The wine is picked early at lower sugar levels and fermented partly in stainless steel and partly in oak (30% new). The wine reveals fresh aromas of ripe fruit, while the palate shows concentrated flavors of melon and pear with a smooth mouth feel. 13% alc.
Ken Forrester 2023 FMC Stellenbosch 95 Sourced from a low yielding, bush vine vineyard planted in 1974, the FMC is one of South Africa’s iconic wines. Very fresh on the nose, it reveals aromas and flavors of stone fruit with a citrus note and hints of mango and spicy oak. Finishes dry. A gorgeous wine. In 2023 there were 23 pickings to select fruit of optimal ripeness, then fermented with native yeast, and matured 10+ months in barrel. The bottled wine is a selection of the best barrels. Not yet released at the time of tasting. The 2022 vintage was also tasted with a similar overall evaluation.
Abi Mitton, Manager, Chenin Blanc Association; Winemaker Shawn Mathyse; Don Winkler; Ina Smith, Former Manager, Chenin Blanc Association
