Papapietro Perry Pinot Noir Current Releases
Ben Papapietro was working as a journalist in the 1960s when he met a fellow-journalist and lover of fine wines, Burt Williams. They made garage wine together, and after Burt founded Williams Selyem, Ben worked harvests there. Ben began making his own garage wine and was joined by another journalist, Bruce Perry, and in 1998 they started their own winery, Papapietro Perry. Today the winery produces small lots of single vineyard and clonal designate wines from top vineyards in Sonoma and Mendocino Counties. We recently tasted the Pinot Noir lineup, and our reviews on these impressive wines are given below.
Unfortunately, Bruce Perry died in early 2022, and assistant winemaker Dave Low was asked to take on lead winemaking responsibilities, while Tyson Freeman became assistant winemaker. The rest of the Papapietro Perry team remains the same: Yolanda Papapietro, Ranae Perry, and, of course, Ben Papapietro. Most of the eight thousand case production is sold direct to consumer; the tasting room is on Dry Creek Road outside Healdsburg.
Charles Vineyard in Anderson Valley
The Wines
Papapietro Perry 2020 Pinot Noir Charles Vineyard Anderson Valley ($66) 92 The Charles Vineyard Pinot Noir is a mix of red fruit with savory and herbal notes enhanced by bright acidity. It’s medium weight with very good balance and freshness and good integration of fruit and oak. Sourced from 114, 115, and 777 clones on three different root stocks on a site in Boonville; aged 11 months in 50% new French oak. 3.68 pH, 13.8% alc.
Papapietro Perry 2020 Pinot Noir Leras Family Vineyards Russian River Valley ($66) 93 This clonal blend offers ripe and dark cherry fruit, a soft and round palate and a long finish with savory notes. It exhibits very good balance and an overall sense of elegance. A beautiful wine. A blend of Pommard, Beringer Heritage, 115, 667, and 777 clones separately fermented and aged 11 months in 50% new French oak. 3.67 pH, 14.1% alc.
Papapietro Perry 2020 Pinot Noir Nunes Vineyard Russian River Valley ($66) 92 Medium ruby red. The Nunes Vineyard Pinot Noir begins with a spicy, dark cherry nose with just a hint of smoke. It offers lovely freshness in the mouth with bright acidity enlivening luscious red fruit. Silky, refined, and very well made. A blend of 115, 667 and 777 clones aged 11 months in 50% new French oak. pH 3.59, 14.1% alc.
Papapietro Perry 2020 Pinot Noir Peters Vineyard Russian River Valley ($66) 94 Medium ruby red. Although not the most expensive, this is perhaps our favorite Papapietro Pinot Noir for drinking now. The nose shows cherry fruit married to spicy, toasty oak. Superbly balanced with vivid acidity and sweet red fruit complemented by savory tea-like notes. Overall elegance and a long finish wraps this one up. A blend of Pommard, 115 and 777 clones from a site west of Sebastopol; matured 11 months in 50% new French oak. pH 3.59, 14.4% alc.
Papapietro Perry 2020 Pinot Noir Pommard Clones Russian River Valley ($82) 93 Medium ruby red. More savory than the other Pinots in this tasting with dark spices and toasty oak overlaying fresh and dried cherries. It’s dry on the palate with well-integrated tannins and could benefit from more time in bottle. Wonderful mouthfeel and an expressive palate. Sourced from several vineyards and aged 11 months in 70% new French oak. pH 3.68, 13.7% alc.
Papapietro Perry 2020 Pinot Noir 777 Clones Russian River Valley ($82) 93 Medium dark ruby. The 777 Clones has a multifaceted bouquet of dark spices, earth, and biltong/jerky on the nose. The flavors are also dark with notes of loam, balsamic, black plum and toasted oak. Firm backbone with good depth and length. A lovely, age worthy Pinot. Matured 11 months in 70% new François Freres French oak. pH 3.67, 13.4% alc.
