Tasting Romania – Decanter
In partnership with Wines of Romania
The incredible transformation of the wine industry in Romania over the past 20 to 30 years can only be understood by tasting the products of the investment and work of its many producers. While there’s undoubtedly been an incredible surge in quality, it’s the leap in expressiveness that heralds a promising future for Romanian wine. A new recognition of the terroirs and indigenous grape varieties that make them truly unique has unlocked the opportunity to bring something special to the international stage. The wines featured belowshow how Feteasca? Alba?, Feteasca? Regala?, Feteasca? Neagra? and Negru de Dra?ga?s?ani are able to adapt to the idiosyncrasies of producers and the variability of terroir without loss of identity.
The reds in particular showcase a wide range of winemaking styles focused on structure and ageability – but a rich fruit core is always preserved. Feteasca? Neagra?’s capacity to produce robust yet approachable wines, underpinned by herbal freshness, is evident, as is the variety’s affinity with wood; even the examples in which oak influence is to the fore preserve a seductive balsamic lift and fleshiness of fruit throughout. Negru de Dra?ga?s?ani, meanwhile, has the potential to produce true modern classics with good cellaring prospects.
If their diversity is striking, there are common denominators across wines and styles. Food-friendliness is perhaps the most important: Romanian wines offer the perfect excuse to discover the country’s many culinary specialties. Enjoy Feteasca? Alba?-dominated wines with chicken stew or meatballs, or expressions of Feteasca? Regala? (both dry and off-dry) with young cheeses and chicken dolmas (stuffed vine leaves). Feteasca? Neagra?, on the other hand, calls for Romanian classics such as sarmale (cabbage leaves stuffed with pork and rice), goulash, lard-preserved pork or even rich fish with baked tomatoes. The assertive tannins and depth of Negru de Dra?ga?s?ani make it the perfect companion for more intensely flavoured dishes, such as oven- baked lamb, limba? cu ma?sline (beef tongue stew with olives) or cabanos (cooked and double-smoked pork sausages). These traditional pairings, like the featured wines, convey a sense of place and history, giving further context and meaning to the revolution happening today.
Liliac, Liliac Sparkling, Transylvania, Romania 2022
Elegant nose of yellow apple, white flowers, chamomile and crunchy pear. Subtle, toasty nuances – fresh almonds and bread dough – playing in the background. Good focus and drive on the palate with linear acidity. Zesty core of lemon, lime, white grapefruit and green apple. Finishes with an even zestier twist of preserved lemon.
Drink 2024-2026 | Alcohol 12%
Aurelia Visinescu, Artisan, Dealu Mare, Muntenia & Oltenia, Romania 2022
Lifted nose with intense floral notes (jasmine, rose petals) over a core of white and yellow orchard fruit (peach, plum, yellow apple). Assertive palate, with a sweet edge to the fruit. Finishes with a sugary twist of candied rose petals and peach jam. A good companion for sushi.
Drink 2024-2025 | Alcohol 13%
Averesti, Diamond Selection Zghihara de Averesti, Husi DOC, Moldova, Romania 2022
Nuanced bouquet with notes of green apple, Asian pear and guava. Good drive and focus on the palate, with a fleshy core of white orchard fruit underpinned by subtle minerality. Finishes with a pleasant saline touch. Ideal with grilled fish and seafood.
Drink 2024-2027 | Alcohol 12.5%
DeMatei, Patima, Dealu Mare, Muntenia & Oltenia, Romania 2022
Alluring nose, with a fun interplay of floral, citrus and orchard fruit notes. Interesting mineral lift to the medium palate, supporting refreshing pink citrus (blood orange, pink grapefruit). A touch of red apple crunch adds depth and energy. A pleasant and refreshing wine with unpretentious complexity.
Drink 2024-2028 | Alcohol 13%
Aurelia Visinescu, Anima 3 Fete Negre, Dealu Mare, Muntenia & Oltenia, Romania NV
Interesting multi-vintage blend, intense yet refined. Nose dominated by dark chocolate and mocha. Crunchy red fruit, plum and pomegranate flavours, topped by a touch of violets. Good integration of wood with smoky notes playing in the foreground.
Drink 2024-2029 | Alcohol 14.5%
Averesti, Diamond Selection Feteasca Neagra Barrique, Husi DOC, Moldova, Romania 2020
Intense savouriness and vibrant fruit play on the nuanced, deep nose. Lovely sandalwood perfume. Dark chocolate and coffee nuances give depth to the plum and cherry flavours. Very persistent with lingering prune, cardamom and sweet spice.
Drink 2024-2029 | Alcohol 14.5%
Budureasca, Wild, Dealu Mare, Muntenia & Oltenia, Romania 2022
Really drying tannins, needing integration. Assertive savoury lining to the core of plum, blackberry and mulberry fruit. Characterful and earthy, with depth and a lot of food pairing potential. Good potential to age in bottle. Good finish with fleshy fruit and savoury notes, especially tapenade.
Drink 2024-2029 | Alcohol 14%
Davino, Domaine Ceptura Rouge, Dealu Mare, Muntenia & Oltenia, Romania 2018
Very classical, with thyme, oregano and dry sage over black fruit, both fresh and dried, and under a fine layer of dark chocolate, tobacco and white pepper. Robust, broad-shouldered tannins, very savoury. The Merlot brings pleasant smoothness to the blend. Lingering notes of tobacco box and forest floor.
Drink 2024-2028 | Alcohol 14.9%
Davino, Flamboyant, Dealu Mare, Muntenia & Oltenia, Romania 2018
Full of character and uncompromising in its intense savouriness. Flavour profile built around secondary characters – olive tapenade, wild oregano and Earl Grey – dominate the palate, with juicy black fruit in the background. Tannins are robust but lifted by a fragrant herbal freshness.
Drink 2024-2026 | Alcohol 12%
DeMatei, Patima, Dealu Mare, Muntenia & Oltenia, Romania 2020
A really expressive and well-crafted wine, deep but with great energy throughout. Deep red and black fruit aromas dominate, with chocolate and smoke playing in the background. Tannins are assertive but refreshing, supporting the pomegranate and cranberry juice flavours. Intense, juicy finish.
Drink 2024-2026 | Alcohol 12%
Domeniile Franco-Romane, Arrogance, Dealu Mare, Muntenia & Oltenia, Romania NV
Intense but fruit-led, with fleshy black fruit – blueberry, blackberry and blackcurrant – topped by dried herbs. The drying grip of the tannins is lifted by savoury thyme, dried oregano and spicy white pepper. Red apple crunch adds a refreshing kick throughout.
Drink 2024-2029 | Alcohol 14.5%
Girboiu, Constantin, Cotesti DOC, Moldova, Romania 2017
Although, with age, it may have lost fruit depth to support the tannins and wood, the savoury characters are quite nuanced and there’s still freshness seven years on. Earthy, deep and broody, with a long minty finish.
Drink 2024-2028 | Alcohol 15%
Oprisor, Crama Oprisor, Dealurile Olteniei IGP, Muntenia & Oltenia, Romania 2019
Although a bit broody on the nose there’s a refreshing undercurrent of crunchy red fruit on the palate, even zesty nuances of pink citrus. Very persistent flavours of cranberry, pomegranate, red apple and poached plum. Alcohol is well integrated, offset by acidity. A enjoyable wine, ideally with food.
Drink 2024-2027 | Alcohol 14.9%
Oprisor, Dragaica Rosie, Dealurile Olteniei IGP, Romania 2020
Potent smokiness on the nose, with beautiful florality in the background (rose petals, violets, sandalwood). Elegant tannic framework – robust but very well presented. Layered and expressive palate showcasing deep plum, blackberry and mulberry fruit, topped by dark chocolate and mocha.
Drink 2024-2030 | Alcohol 14.8%
Rasova, Imperfect, Murfatlar DOC, Romania 2020
Dark fruit dominates: plum, blackberry, dried mulberries and poached cherries. Intense wood tannins, assertive but with a sweet lining. Lingering notes of Darjeeling, dried thyme and black olive tapenade add savoury appeal, while white and black pepper bring in a spicy touch.
Drink 2024-2030 | Alcohol 14.6%
Samburesti, Carpathia, Samburesti DOC, Romania 2021
Robust and polished, with firm but well-honed tannins. Intense quality to the red fruit – red plum, cranberry and pomegranate – underscored by a sweet edge. Lovely structure, lifted by pleasant acididity. An accomplished wine, at once juicy and elegant.
Drink 2024-2029 | Alcohol 14.5%
Samburesti, Chateau Valvis, Samburesti DOC, Muntenia & Oltenia, Romania 2021
Subtle herbal and coffee aromas followed, on the palate, by firm but poised tannins and intense red fruit with a crunchy bite. Thyme, oregano, tobacco and black pepper linger on the finish, lending savoury depth.
Drink 2024-2030 | Alcohol 15%
Viile Metamorfosis, Via Marchizului Feteasca? Neagra?, Dealu Mare, Muntenia & Oltenia, Romania 2020
Nice balance of juicy red and black fruit, with a herbal layer of dried oregano, sage and thyme adding complexity. Savoury lift throughout, supported by good acidity which lifts the crunchy cranberry and cherry fruit. Soft, elegant tannins.
Drink 2024-2028 | Alcohol 14.5%
Viticola Sarica Niculitel, Caii de la Letea Princeps, Colinele Dobrogei IGP, Romania 2021
Well defined, elegant aromas of plum, mulberry, dried thyme and oregano. The palate follows with fine acidity underpinning the fleshy fruit which is held by firm savoury tannins. Complex but also refreshing, with lingering pomegranate and plum flavours.
Drink 2024-2028 | Alcohol 14%
